by

Shipmate Kerosene Stove Manual

Shipmate

Shipmate Kerosene Stove Manual Parts

  • 2
    Table of Contents
  • 4
    Physical Specifications
  • 4
    Description of Functions
  • 4
    Simplified Operative Cycle
  • 4
    Composition of Laser Heaters
  • 5
    Combustion System
  • 5
    Heat Chamber
  • 5
    Burner Ring Assembly.Burner Mat
  • 5
    Flame Rod Sensor. Igniter. Forced Flue Venting System
  • 6
    Flue Pipe
  • 6
    Blower Motor Assembly
  • 6
    Heat Exchanger. Air Circulation Fan
  • 6
    Fuel Delivery System. External Fuel Tank
  • 7
    Fusible Link Valve
  • 7
    Fuel Sump/Fuel Pump
  • 7
    Electrical System. Control Circuit Board
  • 7
    Room Temperature Sensor
  • 8
    Fuel Sump/Fuel Constant Level Valve for Laser 56 Type E and Laser 73 Type H Diagram
  • 8
    Fuel Sump (Fuel Constant Level Valve) for Laser 56 Types F & G and Laser 73 Types I & J Diagram
  • 9
    Safery Mechanisms. Power Failure Recovery System
  • 9
    Cloth Cover Exhaust Pipe. Air Circulation Fan Cover
  • 9
    Fuse. Overheat Protector Switch
  • 9
    Igniter Cleaning System
  • 10
    Combustion System for 56 Type E Diagram
  • 10
    Combustion System for 56 Type F & G Diagram
  • 11
    Combustion System for 73 Type H Diagram
  • 11
    Combustion System for 73 Type I & J Diagram
  • 12
    Physical Placement of Heater
  • 12
    Drilling Requirements
  • 12
    Recommended Tool Kit for Service Technicians
  • 13
    Installation
  • 13
    Power Requirements
  • 13
    Fuel Tank Requirements.
  • 13
    Room Temperature Sensor Wiring Requirements. Unpacking
  • 14
    Heater Clearance Laser 56 Diagram
  • 14
    Heater Clearance Laser 73 Diagram
  • 14
    Overhead Clearance for Flue Pipe Diagram
  • 14
    Frontal and Side Clearances for Flue Pipe Diagram
  • 15
    Flue Pipe Clearances Diagrams
  • 16
    Heater Installation
  • 16
    Laser 73/56 Template
  • 16
    Installation of Flue Pipe Window Kit: Install Flue Pipe in Window Kit
  • 16
    Short or Long Window Kit Diagrams
  • 17
    Installation of Flue Pipe Window Kit: Install Window Kit in the Window
  • 17
    Installation of Flue Pipe Window Kit: Parts List
  • 18
    Installation of Flue Pipe Window Kit: Install Window Lock
  • 19
    Installing and Extension Kit
  • 19
    Extention Pipe Kits
  • 20
    Typical Laser Kerosene Lifter Pump
  • 21
    Fuel Tank Installation
  • 21
    Fueling Options Available
  • 22
    Fuel Line Connection Diagram
  • 23
    For High Altitude Use
  • 23
    Main Circuit Board Diagram
  • 24
    Operation
  • 24
    Operating Specifications
  • 24
    Heater Performance Specifications Table 1
  • 25
    Heater Performance Specifications Table 2
  • 26
    Operating Controls and Indicators
  • 27
    Pre-Operation Check List
  • 27
    Operating Temperature Range Diagram
  • 27
    Before Operation
  • 28
    Manual Operation
  • 29
    Automatic Operation
  • 30
    Automatic Operation By Weekly Set-Back Timer
  • 30
    Installation of Weekly Set-Back Timer
  • 32
    Room Temperature Sensor Installation
  • 32
    Turning Heater Off
  • 32
    Manual Combustion System for Testing Purposes
  • 32
    Power Failure Recovery System/Recover From Overheat Condition
  • 34
    Routine Maintenance
  • 35
    Inspect Intake/Exhaust Air Lines
  • 36
    Verify Igniter Operation
  • 36
    Clean Fuel Inlet Strainer
  • 37
    Replacement of Fuses
  • 37
    Fuel Contamination
  • 38
    Servicing
  • 38
    Cleaning the Heat Chamber and Burner
  • 38
    Warning for Burner Mat Adhesive
  • 39
    Removal of Water Deposits and Contaminants From Fuel Sump and Fuel Lines
  • 39
    Measurement of Fuel Flow Rate
  • 40
    Fuel Flow Rate Table: Requirements to the Fuel Flow
  • 40
    Fuel Flow Rate
  • 41
    Cleaning Blower Motor
  • 41
    Cleaning the Fuel Filter or Water Block Filter
  • 42
    Error Message
  • 43
    Trouble Shooting
  • 43
    Electrical System Diagram
  • 44
    Laser 56/73 Resistance Values Table
  • 44
    Laser 56/73 Component Voltage Readings
  • 45
    Schematic Wiring Diagram
  • 46
    Resistor Value Table
  • 46
    Capacitor Value Table
  • 47
    Control Circuit Board Time Chart
  • 49
    Trouble Shooting Guide
  • 49
    General Checks
  • 54
    Parts Description: Laser Clean Vented Laser 56 (Type E, F, G)
  • 56
    Parts Description: Laser Clean Vented Laser 73 (Type H, I, J)

DIESEL/KEROSENE MODEL

OWNER'S MANUAL AND WARRANTY

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for selection the FORCE 10 Cozy Cabin Heater. Your unit was carefullyinspected and tested at our factory. We take pride in producing one of the finest heatersmanufactured for marine use.
Because of the continuing refinement of our product designs, your heater may possesfeatures that are not discussed in the manual. We have tried to supply all the informationyou might need, so please take time to read this manual before installing and using your Cozy Cabin Heater.
Force 10 advises strongly against unauthorized modification of this product, but we doencourage you to correct problems which may arise by undertaking the simple repairsand maintenance described in the manual.
The most important reason to read this manual is that many of its instructions areessential to the safe operation of your Cozy Cabin Heater.
Should any questions arise requiring personal help, we ask that you contact your dealeror Force 10, quoting both the model and serial number printed on the productidentification label.
We welcome any opportunity to be of assistance:
FORCE 10 MARINE LTD.
23080 Hamilton Road
Richmond, BC Canada V6V 1C9
Tel: (604) 522-0233
Fax: (604) 522-9608

Any recommendation or advice given by Force 10 Marine Ltd. or any of itsemployees is solely an accommodation to the customer, and should not be reliedupon by the customer without an independent verification of its applicability to thecustomer's particular situation

SAFETY AND INSTALLATION

General

The Cozy Cabin Heater, Model 10004, is designed to be fueled only by pressurizeddiesel or kerosene fuel. One US gallon of fuel will provide roughly 24 hours of burning,depending on your tank pressure.

Included with Your Heater

Deck Cap Assembly:
1 - Top Deck Cap w/Guard
1 - Bottom Deck Cap
1 - Inside Finishing Ring
2 - Chimney Washers4 - Feet Spacers
Spare Parts Kit:
1 - Burner Wrench
1 - Blue Plastic Funnel
1 - Senior Parts Kit

Installation of Heater in Cabin

  1. Choose a convenient location for optimum circulation, but not where someonemight accidentally touch it.
  2. The best height is such that the top is approximately 36' off the floor in a boatwith 72' headroom. It is better closer to the ground than the bulkhead.
  3. Allow a safe distance between the sides and the bottom of the heater and combustiblematerials. Usually 6' is sufficient, but if in doubt, protect combustible material withmetal and/or insulating type material such as ceramic tile.
  4. If the heater is mounted such that the stack length or clearance of combustiblematerial above the heater is less than 24', the overhead surface should be protectedwith metal and/or insulating type material such as ceramic tile.
  5. Place the insulating washers between the feet of the heater and the mounting surface.This is all the protection neccessary on normal bulkheads. However, if the bulkhead ispainted or is soft vinyl, a stainless steel sheet larger than the area covered by theheater should also be installed. This would create further protection from heatdiscoloration. Hard insulation material behind the stainless steel sheet would also berecommended.
  6. Screw heater in place temporarily. (It will be necessary to remove it to install the stack.)

Installation of Deck Cap and Stack

**You must exhaust the heater to the exterior to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning!
Diagram 1
  1. Drill a 2' hole in the cabin for the stack to pass through.
    1. Note: Stack is not supplied in this kit as every installation is different, no need to ship 6' if you only need 2' of stack. The stack material is 1' OD (outer diameter) ornamental stainless steel tubing available from your dealer or boat builder. It is the same pipe used to make pulpits and railings (1'OD = 7/8' ID-inside diameter). If you are bending your stack, remember to take into account the radius of your bend in determining the overall length. Do NOT bend more than 45° at any one bend.
  2. Fabricate a round wooden ring approximately 1/2 to 34 inches thickwith a 2' hole drilled through the middle on which to mount the deck cap. A thread winch pad is ideal,and available from local marine dealers.
  3. Using suitable bedding compound, screw the dec cap and wooden ring in placeusing one of the white gaskets supplied as an insulator between the cap and the ring.
  4. Determine the length of the stack required by measuring the distancebetween the top of the heater and half way up into the deck cap (stack should not contact cabin top). The stack may be bent up to a 45° angle with a 5' radius or more to by-pass deck beams or other obstructions (an electrician's conduit bender does a good job). You can easily make a mock-up using residential copper wire pipe before you bend the real thing.
  5. The maximum recommended length of stack is 10'. If there are bends in the stack remove 18' from the maximum length for every bend.
  6. Cut the stack to proper length, remove the heater, place the stack up into the deck rain cap. Install interior finishing ring with cone pointing downward, ensuring That the stack does not contact the cone and placing the other white gasket between the finishing ring and the cabin head liner.
  7. Replace the heater and fasten it permanently, remembering to reinstall the the protective washers between the feet of the heater and the mounting surface.

Installation of the Fuel Tank

The tank must be mounted vertically (i.e. fittings on top), away from any sources ofexcessive heat or vibration and preferably lower than the heater. It should be located suchthat the operating instructions and gauge are easily visible and there is sufficient accessroom to refill the tank.

Installation of the Fuel Line

We recommend 1/4' rubber hose for flexibility and safety. It is available from your dealeror local plumber. Soft copper tubing may also be used, but can kink more readily than rubber.Connect the hose to the heater and tank with flare nuts, which are provided with both theheater and the Force 10 fuel tank. Measure the length of hose or copper tubing you require.If you decide to use copper, have the plumber flare both ends of the tubing to suit.
Install the fuel line using one 9/16' open wrench on the flare nut and one 7/16' wrenchon the fitting on the burner. Do not use any pipe dope or Teflon tape etc., but make a properflare. A good flare on a copper pipe will hold 1500 psi.

Installation Pressure Test

Before filling your tank, first pressurize it empty to 30 psi or 2 atm and check all fittingsof the installation for leaks. Use a solution of 1/2 liquid detergent and 1/2 water and asmall brush. Brush the solution liberally over each connection. The appearance of bubbleswill indicate a leak. Repair leaks, if any. Leave pressurized for one hour and check toensure that the pressure remains constant. If not, repeat the soapy water test on allconnections. Also check the burner with soapy water.

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before attempting to operate theheater and tank.
Before you preheat your burner or pressurize your tank, familiarize yourself with theburner. Turn the burner handle to the left (counterclockwise). This is the CLEANINGposition, and you will observe the pricker (cleaning needle) coming through the nippleright in the center of the burner. If the burner plugs up during burning, you can use thecleaning cycle, but do not use force as it will be hot and expanded and it is possible tojam the pricker in the cleaning position. There is no air calibration to set on this burner.Note that burners using diesel or kerosene fuel require more preheating than alcohol burners.
Caution: The first few times you operate your heater, observe the unit running at fulloutput and ensure that no materials in the vicinity of the heater are being overheated. Re-examine the installation to ensure that no drapes or curtains or combustible materials may comein contact with the heater or stack when the boat is heeled over or rocking violently.

Filling the Tank

  1. Fill the tank approximately 3/4 full of clean filtered fuel. Dirty fuel will eventuallyplug up the burner, so use a screened funnel. If you do not have a screened funnel pourthe fuel through a clean cloth.
  2. Check the burner to be sure it is turned OFF.
  3. Using a bicycle pump, pressurize the tank to approximately 30 psi or 2 atm.
  4. For a cleaner burning heater add 1 part mineral spirits to 4 parts fuel.

Bleeding the Fuel Lines

This procedure is necessary the first time the heater is used or if you have allowed thetank to run dry during operation of the heater, thus emptying the fuel line. To saveyourself extra work, always check to ensure there is sufficient fuel in the tank beforeoperating the heater. All the air in the fuel line must be bled out before attempting to lightthe burner. This is accomplished as follows:
  1. Turn the control knob approximately 1/4 turn to the left (counterclockwise) or untilyou are able to hear the air hissing out of the burner.
  2. Leave the knob in this position and watch the small orifice in the center of the burner.
  3. The hissing sound will continue for a while depending on the length of your line.Continue to watch the orifice until a small stream of fuel is seen shooting up. Thiscan take approximately 1 to 2 minutes.
  4. When the fuel is seen, immediately shut the burner off and follow normal lightingprocedure. Wipe off any fuel on the burner, or you will get a smell during preheating.

Preheating and Lighting the Burner

  1. Pour at least one ounce of alcohol into the burner cup and light. Note: until yougauge how much alcohol to use, always use too much. Allow the alcohol to burn outcompletely. Proceed with lighting the burner. Turn the control knob to the centerposition and light immediately. There is no set Hi-Med-Low position, so familiarizeyourself with the flame and where the cleaning cycle is (see point 4). Never operateyour burner in the cleaning cycle.
  2. If the burner lights with a tall orange-yellow flame, shut the burner off right away andpreheat again. It may have been drafty in your galley, so the alcohol flame did notheat your burner adequately. Remember - a hot burner lights readily, whereas a coolburner will flare up. A correct flame is short, non-smelling blue flame.
  3. If you have to preheat your burner a second time, first allow it it to cool for a minute ortwo before adding more alcohol. if you pour alcohol on a hot burner, it willevaporate instantly and the alcohol fumes could create a flare up. Safety first -- allowburner to cool, add more alcohol, then re-light.
  4. When you are ready to turn off your heater, turn the handle fully counterclockwise tothe cleaning cycle. Leave in this position for 1 minute. This will allow yourburner to cool down and clean the nipple to prevent coking inside the burner.

TROUBLESHOOTING

If something goes wrong with the operation of your Cozy Cabin Heater, do not despair!Read this section carefully for possible causes and cures.
Contact Force 10 directly, or consult your dealer, if these suggestions do not resolvethe problem

The Burner Burns with a Yellow Smokey Flame

  1. The burner was not preheated enough. Turn off the burner and preheat again withalcohol. Be careful when putting alcohol on a hot burner. Make sure the flame iscompletely out -- wait at least one minute after the burner is turned off.
  2. If you often have problems with not getting the burner hot enough, try this trick. Takean empty can, about 3' - 4' in diameter. Remove the top and bottom of the can andplace it around the preheating burner -- this will contain the heat and prevent anydraft.
  3. Perhaps you used methyl hydrate alcohol, which contains 40% water. We recommendthat you use only denatured alcohol, which burns quite a bit hotter.
  4. If your flame is blue with yellow tips, it may be that the inner cap is not properlyseated. Remove the outer cap and push the inner cap all the way down.
  5. If you want to start your burner in rough weather and have trouble keeping thealcohol cup full, you can use alcohol paste, available in some marine stores.
  6. The fuel line may not have been purged. Therefore, when you turn the burner onafter preheating, all you get is air for some time. When fuel finally arrives at theburner, the burner may have cooled off enough that it produces a yellow flame. Wesuggest that you purge the line first before preheating, by opening the burner andwatching the nipple until liquid fuel appears. Wipe off the excess fuel before preheating.

The Burner Flame is Blue on One Side and Yellow on the Other

  1. You may have carbon build-up in your nipple. Turn the control knob to the cleancycle a few times. This should clear the orifice. If the problem persists, try switchingto a different fuel. Buy fuel that is as clear as possible and always filter your fuel.
  2. Your outer or inner caps are not on straight or they may have carbon deposits on
    3. them. Wipe them clean and install them straight. Caution: Be sure the burner is coolbefore handling, or use oven mitts.
  3. You may have a nipple with a bad pricker. Replace the pricker by following theinstructions in 'Repairing the Burner'.

No Fuel is Getting to Your Burner

  1. Check fuel level in tank.
  2. Pressure gauge may be faulty. Check pressure using a tire gauge on the air fitting.Replace the pressure gauge if necessary.
  3. For installations where a long fuel line is used, we install a restrictor in the bottom ofthe burner (in the burner fitting). This is to prevent surging of the burner. Thisrestrictor may be plugged, so follow instructions in 'Repairing the Burner'.

The Flame Shrinks after Burning for a While

  1. Some fuels contain more carbon than others. If you use yellow coloured fuel it has ahigher content of carbon. This carbon will build up at the end of the spindle insidethe burner, restricting the flow of vaporized fuel. You can fix this by tapping theburner with a screwdriver or other utensil. This will knock off the carbon build up.If a large piece of carbon is blocking the orifice, turn the control knob to the cleancycle to unplug the orifice. Note: If you operate the unit with clear fuel, you willeliminate this problem 75% of the time.
  2. There is not enough pressure from the tank. Check to make sure the pressure gauge isworking by using a tire gauge. The minimum pressure required is a constant 10 psi.Running the fuel straight off a fuel pump without a pressure tank will no workproperly.
  3. Do not fill the tank to the top. The less air in the tank, the quicker the pressure willdrop. It is best to fill the tank 3/4 full and then pressurize.

Burner Leaks Slightly When Not in Use

  1. The burner control knob may be in the clean position and not in the closed position.
  2. If the knob has more than 180° of turn, your pricker will prevent the spindle fromclosing the burner. Look at the instructions in the repair kit to learn how to fix thisproblem.
  3. The spindle may be worn at the tapered point. Inspect and replace if necessary.Follow the instructions in 'Repairing the Burner'.

Burner Creates a Smell

  1. You may be using inferior fuel.
  2. You may have a few small leaks around the burner connection, which are not visible.Use the procedure in 'Repairing the Burner' to find and repair the small leaks.

The Flame is Continuously too Small

  1. Test the pressure gauge on the tank with a tire gauge. Replace the gauge if necessary.Run the burner between 10 and 20 psi or 3/4 to 1 1/2 atm.
  2. Your burner may be plugged up internally with carbon. If cleaning does not help youmay need to replace the burner.
  3. If the control knob has only 90° of turn, the pricker is not installed properly. Refer tothe directions in 'Repairing the Burner'.

The Flame Surges or Jumps

  1. The flame will surge if the burner is attached to the tank with more that 2 feet or 60cmof fuel line. This length creates uneven fuel pressure. You may need a restrictoreither in the base of the burner or at the burner fitting.

A Small Yellow Flame Burns around the End of the Handle

  1. Tighten stuffing box nut with a crescent wrench, about half a turn.
  2. If it does not want to tighten anymore replace the packing.

REPAIRING THE BURNER

Read over procedures before trying to repair your burner system. See diagram 2 belowfor further detail. Never remove the entire burner from the stove or heater unlessabsolutely necessary. Always attempt to fix it in place, as soon as the burner is removed itcan be very difficult to re-seal the bottom. The only reason to ever remove a burner is ifthe body of the burner is leaking (very uncommon) or if it is plugged with carbon.
Diagram 2

Procedure For Dismantling The Burner

  1. Ensure the pressure is released from the supply tank and the control knob is in theclosed position (Clockwise).
  2. Turn and remove the two steel caps on the top of the burner. Using the nozzlewrench, remove the nipple by inserting the wrench in through the top of the burnerand unscrewing it. Be sure to press down firmly on the wrench.
  3. Open the control knob 1/4 turn until you can see the needle appear where the nipplewas.
  4. Using a normal pencil with an eraser in the end, drop it in the tip of the burner andpush the eraser onto the needle.
  5. Continue to open the control knob until the needle and the pricker are free and maybe lifted out with the pencil. If the wire of the pricker is gone, use a smallscrewdriver from the side.
  6. Remove the control knob by taking out the spring clip.
  7. Using a 10mm or small crescent wrench, turn the stuffing box counter clockwiseuntil it is free and can be removed.
  8. Replace the control knob and turn the spindle counter clockwiseuntil it is free and can be removed.
  9. Inspect all parts for damage or excessive carbon build up.

Procedure For Re-Assembling The Burner

  1. With the washer, packing and control knob on the spindle, screw the spindle all theway until it stops.
  2. Remove the handle and put the stuffing box nut over the spindle.
  3. Using the stuffing box nut, push the packing in until the thread on the stuffing boxnut engages the thread on the burner.
  4. Using a 10mm or small crescent wrench tighten the stuffing box nut until there is aperceptible drag felt when turning the control knob. This indicates it is compressingthe packing against the shaft of the spindle.
  5. Check the control handle is in the closed position (all the way clockwise).
  6. Stick the pricker in the pencil. With the control knob pointing towards you, lowerthe pricker into the hole with the teeth facing to the left. Allow the pricker to rest onthe spindle. Keep a slight downward pressure on the pencil and pricker and veryslowly start opening the control knob (counter clockwise). Continue to open it untilyou feel four distinct clicks of the pricker through the pencil. This indicates youhave passed four teeth on the spindle.
  7. Close the control knob while keeping the slight downward pressure on the pencil.This action will draw the pricker into the burner.
  8. Replace the nipple using the nozzle wrench (do not tighten it up hard until goingthrough the check procedure outlined later in this document).
  9. If the nipple keeps falling out of the wrench, use a little grease to keep it in thewrench.

CHECK PROCEDURE

A correctly assembled burner has about 135° of turn on the control knob from fullyclosed to the end of the clean cycle (between 1/2 and 1/4 turn). If the burner has more orless turn it indicates the teeth on the pricker have engaged the wrong teeth on the spindle.

Correction Procedure

If the burner has only 90° or one quarter turn on the knob this will cause the burner justto burn with a small flame
Close the valve(clockwise). Remove the nipple and open the control knob until thepencil can be placed on the pricker. Keep a slight downward pressure on the pencil andcontinue to open the control knob until you feel the pricker jump one more tooth. Closethe valve (clockwise). Re-assemble and re-check.
If the burner has 180° or one-half turn on the knob this condition will cause the burnerto leak slightly when fully closed as the pricker contacts the inside bottom of the burnerbefore the control knob has turned far enough to close.
Turn burner to closed position (clockwise). Remove the nipple and open the controlknob (counter clockwise) until the pencil can be placed on the pricker. Keep a slightupward pull on the pencil and continue to slowly open the control knob (CC) until thepricker is released. From this exact point where the control knob released the pricker, liftthe pricker about a quarter inch and turn the control knob clockwise very slightly. Onlyenough to pass one more tooth on the spindle and re-insert the pricker. Close the controlknob all the way (clockwise), this will draw the pricker in, and replace the nozzle and gothrough the check procedures again.
You must correct the amount of turn (between 1/2 and 1/4 turn) or you are wasting yourtime and your burner will not work properly, so have patience and repeat the proceduresif necessary.
If you now have the correct amount of turn on the control knob, tighten up the nozzle.
If you have removed your burner from your stove or heater and you re-installed it, drainyour tank completely and pressurize the whole system with air only. Now test all yourre-connections with soapy water and a small brush. If you see bubbles, you have a leak thatneeds to be corrected.
Small leaks can be dangerous, and evaporated liquid fuel can cause headaches. So besafe and make sure there are no leaks in your system.

Shut Off Valves

Force 10 does not include shut-off valves in their tanks as they are dangerous. Peoplesometimes turn off the shut-off valves while everything is under pressure. The next timethe burner is preheated, and the user has forgotten to open the shut-off valve, thepressurized liquid fuel in the line and burner may come under very high pressure becauseof preheating the burner. This often blows holes in the burner. if no shut-off valve existsthe excess pressure is taken up by the air cushion in the tank. We recommend releasingthe air pressure in the tank as better alternative to a shut-off valve when not on board.

REMOVAL OF THE BURNER FOR SERVICING

If Your Tank is Lower Than Your Heater

  1. Release pressure by carefully releasing the set screw located on the filler cap gaugeon the tank.
  2. Turn burner knob to open position to allow fuel line to drain
  3. Use a 9/16' open end wrench to take off the flare nut while holding the fitting with a7/16' open end wrench.
  4. Remove burner using a 3/4' open end wrench on the burner securing nut, holding theburner securely with your hand to prevent it from swiveling. Apply force only to thecase nut on the base of the burner. Never try to twist the burner top.

If Your Tank is Above or Even with Your Heater

  1. Release pressure by carefully releasing the set screw on the filler cap gaugeon the tank.
  2. Leave burner control knob in the closed position.
  3. Disconnect fuel line at the tank using 7/16' and 9/16' open end wrenches.
  4. Remove burner as per #4 above, but place a large flat container beneath the heater to catchthe liquid fuel which will empty from the line when the burner is removed.

TESTING

If burner was removed from the heater it must be tested for leaks once it is re-installed.
Drain fuel tank completely and pressurize the whole system with air only. Test allconnections with soapy water and a small brush. (It is a good idea to re-test allconnections at this same time). If you see bubbles, there are leaks that will need to becorrected, Even small leaks can be dangerous. If you have a leak near your burner, theheat will evaporate the liquid fuel and create a headache-causing smell.
Diagram 3

LIMITED WARRANTY

Force 10 Marine Ltd. warranties new products to the original consumer to be free fromdefective material(s) and workmanship while under normal use and service. This limitedwarranty extends for the following periods:
Propane/CNG Gourmet Galley RangesTwo (2) Years
Propane/CNG Cooktop StovesTwo (2) Years
Propane/CNG/D-K Cozy Cabin HeatersOne (1) Year
Propane Slimline Cabin HeatersOne (1) Year
Barbecue GrillsOne (1) Year

Shipmate Stove Parts

Stove

I need some expert advice about this old Shipmate stove/oven. What fuel would be best in it? Were is the tank usually located? Looks quite much that stove uses Optimus 207 burner (and Optimus control knobs.) So most probably it's a kerosene stove. Also kerosene is more safe in boat cabins so gasoline is not generally used in boat stoves. FORCE 10 GOURMET GALLEY RANGE Propane and Natural Gas Models. If natural gas is used in a propane stove the burner flame will be inadequate for cooking. If propane is used in a stove. Alcohol or kerosene fuel, but without their potential hazard of liquid leaks or spillage into the bilge, the CNG cylinder may be located in the area of the.